Thursday, May 28, 2015

Aoi Matsuri and the Month of May

On one of Julia's treks into or out of the Kyoto main train station recently she came upon a lighted art installation that changes randomly every few weeks or so. She had yet to see it and took a picture as it was a display of one her new favorite things in Japan. Koi!


She also sent us a nice update:

 "Two Fridays ago was Aoi Matsuri, one of Kyoto's three major festivals. We didn't get a day off from classes, but we did get to leave class early to see the procession as it went through the park near Doshisha Campus. Sadly, I forgot to bring my camera, but fellow exchange student Arianna Hayes took some great pictures.




The Aoi Matsuri (葵祭) is one of Kyoto's three most well known and historic festivals and takes place every May 15. (The other two are the the Gion Matsuri - which goes throughout the month of July- and the Jidai Matsuri - on October 22nd each year.) Because of the popularity of the Aoi Matsuri, which began back in 794, the word Matsuri came  to mean festival in the  Japanese language as far back as the 1100s! Which is before the Canterbury Tales were written by about 200 plus years... Aoi means Hollyhock- so in many ways, the Aoi Matsuri is a celebration and welcoming of spring much as Easter is in Christian nations. Almost all of the participants in the parade wear hollyhock leaves pinned or sewn onto their clothing.

By the time the Imperial family moved to Kyoto in 1185 the festival was already a VERY big deal. During the festival all eyes are focused on the centerpiece- a grand parade with more than 500 people dressed in the clothing style of the nobility from the Heian Period (794-1185) who then walk through the city from the Imperial Palace to the Kamo River Shrines.  Doshisha University is across the street from the Imperial Palace. So Julia had a front row seat!

No one is certain how the festival began, but it is believed that there were natural disasters such as river floods that the people believed were  caused by the deities of the Kamo River Shrines. The disasters decreased after the Emperor made public offerings to the gods,  and thus - in the beginning anyway- a new celebratory tradition was begun in honor of the Emperor's sacrifice. 

Historically, a young female member of the imperial family acted as the Saio, the high priestess of the Kamo Shrines. In those days, during any festival, the Saio performed the sacred ceremonies at each of the shrines. Today, a single woman from Kyoto, who undergoes purification rituals,  is newly chosen every year to serve as Saio and she travels through the parade on a simple palanquin carried by 8 men.

Today's festival is an elegant reminder of those parades and celebrations of old as well as a nod to the great and long history of the region. There are giant floral bouquets, women and men on horses in elaborate costumes and make-up, men in clownish bright yellow striped jumpsuits,  parasols crowned with more flowers, gorgeously adorned ox carts, and dozens of beautifully clad women and children in kimono accompanying the year's Saio. 

Saio on her Palanquin

More from Julia:

"Later that day, I went with a group of other students to Ninja Kyoto, a ninja-themed all-you-can-eat restaurant. I was expecting it to be very touristy, and it was a bit, but most of the customers were Japanese. The staff were all dressed like ninjas, complete with masks and fake knives (at least, I assume they were fake!). There were lots of great desserts, though no one was able to keep eating for the full hour and a half we had reserved. Towards the end of our time there, one of the staff gave a juggling performance. He started by juggling some balls, gradually increasing the number, then switched to plastic bowling pins. Finally, he juggled knives! I'm guessing those were also props, but you never know. They are ninjas, after all. 
Friendly Ninja Maître d'

Are those real Ninjas??? They look a little clean...

ninja knife juggler

the Ninja cheesecake frog dessert...

Sometime around Mid May- Julia received her first care package from home. We sent her the one thing that she couldn't find in the local conbini- that she was really craving, and some other stuff too.

 This was the photo response we got to Chips n Salsa in Japan!
We also sent koi food for her to feed the campus fish!

As she promised, Julia took a few photos for us of the Doshisha Campus. If you didn't know it, Doshisha was founded in 1875 and established along the lines of a classic British University. It is a beautiful campus and most of it looks like it should be on the east coast of the U.S. or in England. 

This is the Kofukan Building - where most of Jule's classes are.

The main campus walkway.





As we turn to June, the weather in Kyoto is settling into humid, humid, humid:

"Humidity is starting to set in. It's not that bad, but the combination of clouds and heat is really confusing for me as a Californian. Those things aren't supposed to go together! 
I sent in a submission for Ploughshares Emerging Writers Contest. There's an entry fee of $24, but I also get a subscription to their magazine out of that and it's $1000 if I win, so it seemed a fair gamble. 


 In my Japanese culture class, we went to a study room and practiced Buddhist Zen meditation, which is something we've been learning about in the process of learning about religions in Japan. A Buddhist monk came to the class and explained the principles and history of meditation, then we tried it for about 15 minutes. My legs got stiff from trying to sit correctly, but apart from that, it was relaxing."

(Julia doesn't normally sit cross legged!)
     Love you, and hope everything is good at home.

-Julia



As we waltz into summer, Julia is approaching her half-way mark! 
As of June 7 she will have been on exchange for 10 weeks and her total time in Japan is 20 weeks! And after that, it is just 7 weeks until Camille and I arrive in Kyoto, and only 8 weeks until Nick gets there too! Time sure does fly when you're busy!

I'll leave you with a last couple of photos shot by Jules on one of her outings-
Her morning walk to school along the Kamo.
Japanese Wysteria in Bloom.

Sayonara!

Golden Week, Map-eating Deer, & Tea Ceremonies,


It's been a few weeks since I last posted, and I apologize for that. May is always crazy busy: fundraisers, end of track season, and the High School Career Fair  that I also run. 
But as we approach June, I finally get some breathing room again!

Time to catch up on Julia in Kyoto! She writes:


 “Remember the okonomiyaki I mentioned before? I made it! 
Julia's homemade Okinomiyaki!











 On the subject of food, I recently went with some other students from my Japanese class to a parfait place. We all got delicious desserts, a few people got actual food, and talked about the class.
Julia's Parfait!- the reddish lump is Red Bean paste
 made from Adzuki Beans and lightly sweet. Good Protein!










 Afterwards, half the group went home, while the other half wanted to do karaoke. I went with the karaoke group. We mostly sang popular American songs that I vaguely knew, but there were a couple of anime theme songs thrown in, plus the Japanese version of "Let It Go." We got back late, so I didn't get to sleep until 1 AM, but I had the whole weekend to sleep in.



I've been walking to school the last few days. It takes about half an hour, but I get to pass by the river where I usually go running, and seeing it is a good way to start the day. There are ducks and pigeons and some kind of raptor. (I haven't figured out what it is. Probably a hawk?)"
Enjoy Julia's walk to school!
These are all shots along the Kamo River in Kyoto- the main river. The northern part of the city actually sits at the confluence of two large rivers flowing from the mountains above town- the older Kamo and the Takano- that merge together to become the great Kamo River. The Kamo that Julia sees every day will continue to swell in size throughout the summer months.

Remember to click on pictures if you'd like to see them larger!

Julia took this picture of a great Blue Heron on the Kamo

And now more from Julia:

Golden Week is coming up, which means a week of no school. I feel like I'm just getting used to the schedule… Anyways, some students are talking about traveling during the break, but no definite plans yet. I'd like to go to the deer park in Nara, since I'm pretty sure I know how to get there via the subway, and I need more animal contact. The koi fish are nice, but they're not furry. They do give very nice finger nibbles though.
There's a store near the university that sells manga, DVDs, and CDs. They have used CDs for just 300 yen! I bought the only YUI album that I didn't yet own, and was able to import it onto my iTunes. And yes, Camille, they have K-pop. And Acid Black Cherry. So if there's something that's hard to find in the US, let me know." 

 A Little About Golden Week:

Golden Week, one of the biggest holiday celebrations of Japan, was a few weeks ago from April 29-May 5th: During the week Julia had no classes and had an opportunity to do a little exploring.
Golden Week is actually 4 different holidays that are simply grouped together:
April 29 is Showa Day (Showa no hi) which was the birthday of Emperor Showa, who died in 1989.
May 3 is Constitution Day (Kenpo kinenbi), the day in 1947 when the new constitution came into effect.
May 4 is Greenery Day (Midori no hi) (which used to be celebrated on April 29th) and is similar to our Arbor Day, but much more popular than Arbor Day. Greenery Day became much more popular during Emperor Showa’s life and after his death because he was a devotee of the natural world.
May 5 is Children's Day (Kodomo no hi) however it is really just the Boy's Festival (Tango no Sekku) which is celebrated on this day! (The Girl's Festival is celebrated on March 3.) Families pray for the good fortune of their sons with colorful displays of carp kites and samurai dolls, which both symbolize a long, strong, successful life.

Here’s what Jules had to say about her Golden Week and her visit to Nara, an ancient Imperial City of Japan just a few hours south of Kyoto by train:

 “I went to Nara with three other students. Our goal was to go to the deer park, which is exactly what it sounds like: a park full of deer that people are allowed to feed. For 150 yen, you could buy a packet of deer biscuits (shika senbei). The deer in Japan are a lot smaller than in America and they acted like a cross between dogs and goats. They followed people around and tried to eat things they shouldn't. One buck ate the tourist map my friend bought! Afterwards, we went to see the nearby temples. I took lots of pictures, which I'll be uploading soon once I edit them and decide which ones are best.
I also took pictures of Doshisha campus. Those will be added later too.


Adorable deer among the shrines. It is illegal to hurt the deer in anyway.
 To protect the deer, no traffic is allowed in the main part of town .
Julia collecting water to drink at a shrine in Nara.

Nara was previously an Imperial Capital back in the middle ages, for a few hundred years.

Todai-Ji Buddhist Temple in Nara- Japan's largest statue of Buddha lives within.

Enjoying yummy street food- Julia's having onigiri- hot steamed Rice cakes!

Yes, that's not only legal- it's encouraged!!


More from Jules:
"Today, I'm at one of the other girl’s dorms watching anime (Mom edit-Japanese Cartoons –not always for kids!) and eating lunch with the group from Nara. It requires a lot less running around than yesterday!”



“There was a test when we got back from Golden Week, but I misread the schedule (easy to do, since it's in Japanese) and studied the wrong topic, so I didn't do very well. I explained this to the professor, and she offered to let me retake the test. I did the retake on Friday, which felt a lot easier than the first time.
Japanese language test! Have fun reading that!

 In my Japanese culture class, we've been learning about tea ceremonies. Yes, there's a whole ceremony centered around drinking tea. The professor brought in green tea and rice candies for us to try. The candies ran out before I could eat one, but I got to try the tea. It was less bitter than the green tea I usually get in the U.S. -not quite sweet, but good.”
Tea Ceremony - And this is a link to watching a video of a Japanese Tea Ceremony.

That' s all for this post! Sayonara!